Maltipoo Haircuts and Grooming: Styles and Care
The most popular Maltipoo haircuts (teddy bear, puppy, and lamb cuts) with a photo gallery, blade-length chart, and the brushing, bathing, and matting-prevention routine that keeps the coat healthy between grooms.
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The most popular Maltipoo haircuts, including the teddy bear cut, the puppy cut, and the lamb cut, all solve the same problem: a soft, wavy, low-shedding coat that looks adorable but mats in days if you leave it alone. Because a Maltipoo inherits hair rather than fur from its Maltese and Poodle parents, that coat keeps growing and needs a real routine of brushing, bathing, and regular trims to stay healthy and comfortable. This guide breaks down every common style with a photo gallery, shows you exactly how short to go, and walks through an at-home and professional grooming schedule that prevents painful matting instead of chasing it.
- 1The three go-to Maltipoo haircuts are the teddy bear cut (round and fluffy), the puppy cut (short and even), and the lamb cut (short body with fuller legs)
- 2A Maltipoo's hair-type coat mats easily, so brushing 3 to 5 times a week and a professional groom every 4 to 6 weeks matter more than the style you choose
- 3You can maintain the face, feet, and sanitary areas at home between grooms with the right clippers, a slicker brush, and blunt-tip scissors
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Why Maltipoo Grooming Is Different
Before you pick a style, it helps to understand what you are working with. Maltipoos are a cross between a Maltese and a Toy or Miniature Poodle, and both parents contribute a single, continuously growing coat rather than the double coat that sheds seasonally. According to the American Kennel Club (akc.org), Poodle and Maltese coats are prized for being low-shedding, which is exactly why the Maltipoo is marketed as a good fit for allergy-conscious homes.
The tradeoff is maintenance. Hair that does not shed out on its own still sheds at the follicle, and those loose strands stay trapped in the surrounding coat instead of falling to the floor. Left unbrushed, they twist together into mats, especially in the high-friction zones behind the ears, under the collar, in the armpits, and around the rear. A neglected Maltipoo coat can pelt into a solid mat against the skin within a couple of weeks, which is uncomfortable, traps moisture, and can hide skin problems.
That is the real reason grooming matters for this breed. The haircut you choose is mostly about looks and how much daily upkeep you want. The brushing, bathing, and trimming schedule is what keeps your dog healthy. Coat texture varies by generation and by the individual dog: a curlier, more Poodle-like coat mats faster and hides mats better, while a straighter, more Maltese-like coat shows tangles sooner but can be easier to brush through. You will find the same coat-genetics story behind Maltipoo coat color in our guide to Maltipoo colors.
Popular Maltipoo Haircuts and Styles
There is no breed standard for a Maltipoo, so there are no official grooming styles either. Instead, groomers adapt a handful of poodle-mix classics to suit the dog and the owner's lifestyle. Here are the styles you will actually be choosing between, followed by a quick comparison table.
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| Style | Body Length | Signature Look | Upkeep Level |
|---|---|---|---|
| Teddy Bear Cut | 1-2 in all over | Round, plush face and body | High: brush 4-5x per week |
| Puppy Cut | 1/2-1 in even | Short, uniform, tidy | Moderate |
| Lamb Cut | Short body, fuller legs | Leggy, playful outline | Moderate to high |
| Kennel / Summer Cut | 1/4-1/2 in | Very short, low fuss | Low |
| Top Knot / Face Frame | Body varies, longer head | Long facial hair tied up | High on the face |
The Teddy Bear Cut
The teddy bear cut is the most requested Maltipoo haircut, and it is the look most people picture when they imagine the breed. The body is left at roughly 1 to 2 inches, and the face is scissored into a soft, rounded shape with full cheeks and a short muzzle so the dog resembles a plush toy. The ears are usually blended into the rounded head rather than left long.
It is undeniably the cutest option, but it is also the highest maintenance. Leaving that much length means loose hair has more coat to tangle into, so a true teddy bear cut needs brushing four to five times a week and a shape-up groom every four weeks to keep the round outline crisp. If you love the look but not the labor, ask your groomer for a "short teddy," which keeps the round face but takes the body down closer to a puppy cut length.
The Puppy Cut
The puppy cut is the practical everyday choice. The coat is clipped to a short, even length all over, usually half an inch to an inch, including the legs, body, and a lightly rounded face. It keeps a soft, youthful look (hence the name) without the sculpted roundness or the upkeep of a full teddy bear.
Because the length is uniform and short, mats have less coat to form in and are easier to brush out when they do. Most owners find a puppy cut the easiest style to live with: brush a few times a week, groom every five to six weeks, and you are done. It is a great default if this is your first doodle-type dog.
The Lamb Cut
The lamb cut keeps the body short while leaving the legs noticeably fuller and fluffier, creating a leggy, columnar silhouette that mimics a little lamb. The face is typically rounded and softer than the body. It is a fun, distinctive middle ground that shows off a Maltipoo's frame while still trimming down the heaviest, mat-prone areas of the trunk.
The catch is those plush legs. Longer leg hair sits right where a dog brushes against furniture and its own body, so it tangles quickly. A lamb cut needs the same frequent leg brushing as a teddy bear even though the body is easier to manage.
The Kennel Cut (Summer Cut)
The kennel cut, also called a summer cut or a short shave, takes the whole coat down to about a quarter to half an inch with clippers. It is the lowest-maintenance Maltipoo haircut by a wide margin: minimal brushing, fewer mats, and a cool, tidy dog for hot weather or an active, outdoorsy lifestyle. Many owners switch to a kennel cut in summer and grow the coat back out for the cooler months.
Two cautions. First, do not shave a Maltipoo down to the skin. A very short clip still leaves enough coat to protect against sun and abrasion, and shaving bald removes that buffer and can irritate sensitive skin. Second, a kennel cut is functional rather than fancy, so if you want the signature round Maltipoo face, ask the groomer to keep the head a touch longer and rounded even while the body goes short.
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Face and Feature Styles
On top of the body cut, you will make a few face and feature choices. A rounded "teddy bear face" keeps the muzzle short and the head circular. A "top knot" or Maltese-style face leaves the hair around the eyes and muzzle long, often tied up to keep it out of the eyes. Feet can be scissored round ("cat foot") or left slightly fuller. Ears can be blended short or left long and feathered. Mixing and matching these is how two Maltipoos in the same body cut end up looking completely different.
- Style names are not standardized, so one groomer's teddy bear is another's puppy cut. The fastest way to get the result you want is to show a clear reference photo and give the specific length in inches for the body, legs, and face.
Teddy Bear Cut vs. Puppy Cut: What Is the Difference?
The difference between a teddy bear cut and a puppy cut is shape and length, not a different technique. A puppy cut is a short, even trim (usually half an inch to an inch) over the entire dog, with a simply rounded face. A teddy bear cut leaves more length (often 1 to 2 inches) and, more importantly, sculpts the face and head into a deliberate round, plush shape with full cheeks so the dog looks like a stuffed animal.
In practice, the teddy bear is the more stylized, higher-upkeep look, while the puppy cut is the shorter, lower-maintenance everyday version of the same idea. Many groomers blur the two by giving a "teddy bear puppy cut," which pairs the round teddy face with the shorter, easier-to-maintain puppy body. If you are unsure, start with a puppy cut length and a rounded face, then grow it out toward a full teddy bear once you know how much brushing you are realistically willing to do.
How Short Should You Cut a Maltipoo's Hair?
How short you cut a Maltipoo comes down to how much brushing you want to do and the weather where you live, but a safe, comfortable range for the body is roughly a quarter inch to two inches. Never shave a Maltipoo down to bare skin. The coat provides sun protection and a barrier against scrapes and irritation, and clipping to the skin can leave the coat patchy or change its texture as it grows back.
As a rule of thumb, longer clips (1 to 2 inches, a teddy bear look) mean more daily brushing to prevent mats, while shorter clips (quarter to half an inch, a kennel or puppy cut) mean far less upkeep. If your dog already has mats, going shorter is usually kinder than trying to brush out a tightly matted coat, which pulls painfully at the skin. The table below translates common clipper blades and guard combs into the length they leave, so you can talk lengths with your groomer or set up your own clippers correctly at home.
| Blade or Guard | Approx. Coat Length Left | Typical Use |
|---|---|---|
| 1 in comb attachment | ~1 in | Fluffy teddy bear body |
| #3 or 3/4 in comb | ~1/2 in | Longer puppy cut |
| #4 blade | ~3/8 in (10 mm) | Short teddy bear body |
| #5 blade | ~1/4 in (6 mm) | Standard puppy or summer cut |
| #7 blade | ~1/8 in (3 mm) | Very short kennel cut |
| #10 blade | ~1/16 in (1.5 mm) | Sanitary areas and pads only |
For the face, feet, and sanitary areas, most owners work with scissors or a short guard rather than a very close blade, because those areas are sensitive and close to the eyes, paw pads, and skin folds. When in doubt, leave a little more length than you think you want. You can always take more off, but you cannot put it back until it grows.
- A Maltipoo's coat protects against sun and abrasion. Shaving down to bare skin removes that protection, can irritate sensitive skin, and sometimes causes the coat to grow back uneven or with a different texture. Keep at least a quarter inch on the body.
The Maltipoo Brushing Routine
Brushing is the single most important thing you do for a Maltipoo's coat, and it is where most matting problems are won or lost. Aim to brush at least three to five times a week for a shorter coat and daily for a full teddy bear or lamb cut. A few focused minutes every day beats a long, stressful detangling session once a week, both for the coat and for your dog's patience.
Use a slicker brush to work through the coat in sections, then follow with a stainless steel greyhound comb to catch tangles the slicker glides over. The comb is the real test: if it passes cleanly from skin to tip, that section is mat-free. If it snags, you have found a tangle to work out before it becomes a mat. Always brush and comb all the way down to the skin, not just over the surface, because mats form at the base of the coat where you cannot see them.
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Line Brushing, Step by Step
- Lay your dog on its side, calm and settled, and part the coat into a horizontal line so you can see the skin.
- Mist that section lightly with a dog detangling or leave-in conditioning spray. Brushing bone-dry hair causes breakage and static.
- Brush the exposed section from the skin outward with the slicker, then comb it to confirm it is clear.
- Drop the part down an inch and repeat, working up the body in lines so nothing is missed.
- Pay extra attention to the friction zones: behind and under the ears, the chin and collar area, the armpits, the groin, and the tail base.
This "line brushing" method is how professional groomers get a coat truly mat-free rather than just smoothing the top layer. It takes 10 to 15 minutes for a well-maintained pet coat and becomes a fast, low-stress habit once your dog is used to it.
Bathing and Drying a Maltipoo
Bathe a Maltipoo about every three to four weeks, or when the coat looks or smells dirty. Bathing more often than that can strip the skin's natural oils and leave the coat dry and more prone to breakage, while going much longer lets dirt and oils build up and encourage matting. The key rule that trips up first-time owners: always fully brush and de-mat before the bath, never after. Water shrinks and tightens existing tangles, so bathing a matted dog turns loose tangles into set mats that are much harder to remove.
Use a gentle dog-specific shampoo. Human shampoos have the wrong pH for canine skin and can cause irritation. Work the lather down to the skin, rinse thoroughly (leftover shampoo is a common cause of itchy, flaky skin), and follow with a dog conditioner to help the coat stay soft and tangle-resistant. If your dog has sensitive or itchy skin, veterinary dermatology resources such as those from Cornell University's College of Veterinary Medicine (vet.cornell.edu) recommend a mild, soap-free formula and a full rinse.
Drying matters as much as washing. Towel off the worst of the water, then blow dry on a low, warm (not hot) setting while brushing the coat straight with a slicker. This "fluff drying" prevents the coat from air-drying into curls and tangles and is how groomers get that smooth, full finish. Letting a Maltipoo air dry, especially a curlier coat, is one of the fastest ways to end up with mats a day later.
- Water tightens tangles into mats. Do all your brushing and de-matting on a dry coat first, then bathe. A dog that goes into the tub mat-free comes out easy to dry and style.
How to Prevent and Remove Matting
Matting is the number one grooming problem for this breed, so it deserves its own plan. Prevention is almost entirely about routine: brush and comb to the skin several times a week, keep the coat at a length you can realistically maintain, dry thoroughly after baths and swims, and pay special attention to the friction zones where collars, harnesses, and joints create constant rubbing. A harness or collar left on a damp or long coat is a classic mat factory.
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When you do find a mat, assess it first. For a small, loose tangle, hold the base of the hair against the skin so you are not pulling, then tease the mat apart with your fingers and a comb, working from the outer edge inward. A detangling spray helps the fibers slide apart. For a tight or large mat, do not saw at it with scissors near the skin, because it is easy to cut the skin itself since matted hair pulls it up into the mat. Instead, take the dog to a groomer, who can carefully clip under the mat with clippers.
- Tight mats pull the skin up into them, so scissoring at the base can cut your dog. If a mat will not brush out, clip it out with clippers slid flat under the mat, or let a professional groomer handle it.
If a coat has pelted (large sections matted solidly against the skin), the humane choice is a short clip-down to start fresh, not hours of painful brushing. It is not a failure; it is a reset. Grow the coat back out with a better brushing routine, and consider keeping it in a shorter cut that fits the time you actually have.
Professional Grooming Schedule and Costs
Even the most diligent home groomer benefits from a professional groom on a regular schedule. A good rule is a full professional groom every four to six weeks, with brushing and light maintenance at home in between. Stretching much past six weeks usually means the coat outgrows its shape and starts to mat, and groomers often have to go shorter than you wanted just to get a clean, comfortable result.
Costs vary by region, coat condition, and the salon, but the table below gives a realistic planning range. Note that a matted coat almost always costs more, because de-matting is time-consuming and hard on the dog, and many groomers charge a de-matting fee or simply shave down instead.
| Service | How Often | Typical Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Full groom (bath, cut, nails, ears) | Every 4-6 weeks | $45-90 |
| Bath and tidy (no full cut) | Every 2-4 weeks | $25-45 |
| Nail trim only | Every 3-4 weeks | $10-20 |
| Face, feet, sanitary trim at home | Weekly | $0 |
Between professional visits, a quick weekly tidy of the face, feet, and sanitary area at home keeps your dog comfortable and the coat looking fresh without paying salon prices every week. That home maintenance is also what lets you safely stretch to the six-week end of the grooming schedule.
How to Cut Your Maltipoo's Hair at Home
You can cut your Maltipoo's hair at home once you have the right tools and a calm, patient approach, though most owners leave the full body clip to a groomer and handle only the maintenance trims. If you want to do a full at-home cut, start when your dog is relaxed, work on a non-slip surface at a comfortable height, and keep sessions short and positive with plenty of treats.
A Simple At-Home Grooming Sequence
- Brush and comb the entire coat to the skin first. You cannot clip a matted coat evenly, and clipping over mats pulls painfully.
- Bathe, then fully dry and brush straight. Clip a clean, dry coat, never a dirty or damp one.
- Clip the body with the coat, using a guard comb or blade for your target length (see the blade table above). Move slowly and go with the direction of hair growth for a smoother finish.
- Scissor the face, feet, and tail with blunt-tip (rounded) safety scissors. Round the face gradually, checking symmetry from the front, and trim the hair around the eyes so your dog can see.
- Trim the sanitary area (around the rear and belly) with a short guard, and neaten the paw pads and between the toes.
- Finish with a comb-through and touch up any uneven spots.
Two safety essentials: use only blunt-tip scissors anywhere near the face, eyes, and paws, and keep clipper blades from overheating on the skin (metal blades warm up quickly, so pause and check the temperature against your wrist). If you are nervous about the face, do the body at home and let a groomer handle the delicate facial scissoring.
At-Home Grooming Tools You Need
Having the right kit makes every step above easier and safer. You do not need a full salon, but a few quality basics pay for themselves quickly versus paying for bath-and-tidy visits.
- A slicker brush and a stainless steel greyhound comb (fine and coarse teeth). The comb is your mat detector.
- A quality pair of clippers with adjustable or interchangeable guards, rated for the fine, dense hair of doodle-type coats.
- Blunt-tip (safety) grooming scissors and a small pair of curved scissors for rounding the face and feet.
- A gentle dog shampoo and conditioner, plus a leave-in detangling spray for line brushing.
- A dog-safe nail trimmer or grinder, and styptic powder in case a nail is cut too short.
- A non-slip mat and, ideally, a forced-air or low-heat dryer for fluff drying.
Nails, Ears, and Eyes
Grooming is more than the coat. Trim nails every three to four weeks so they do not click on the floor or splay the toes; if you can hear them, they are too long. Check and gently clean the ears, since the hair that grows in a Maltipoo's ear canal can trap wax and moisture and lead to infections. Wipe the area under the eyes regularly with a damp cloth to manage tear staining, which shows up more on light-colored coats. A vet check is the right move for any red, smelly, or painful ear or eye, rather than a home remedy.
- A puppy that learns early to accept brushing, nail trims, and the dryer becomes an adult that is easy (and affordable) to groom for life. Keep first sessions short, upbeat, and full of treats, handling the paws, ears, and face a little every day.
Grooming Compared to Other Doodle Breeds
If you are weighing a Maltipoo against similar low-shedding crosses, the grooming commitment is broadly the same across the doodle family, because they all inherit that continuously growing, mat-prone coat. A cavapoo, for example, needs the same several-times-a-week brushing and a groom every four to six weeks. The main differences come down to size and coat curl, which affect how fast mats form and how much coat there is to maintain. Whatever the mix, the honest question to ask yourself before choosing a style is not "which cut is cutest," but "how many minutes a day will I actually spend brushing." Match the haircut to that answer and both you and your dog will be happier. For the full picture on temperament, health, and care, see our complete Maltipoo breed guide.
Frequently Asked Questions About Maltipoo Haircuts
Are Maltipoo Haircuts Different for Males and Females?
The haircut itself is not gendered: a teddy bear cut, puppy cut, or lamb cut looks the same on a male or a female Maltipoo, and neither sex has a different coat type. What does change is a small part of the sanitary trim and, if you want it, the face styling. The differences are practical, not cosmetic rules.
- Sanitary trim. On a male, groomers keep the hair short around the sheath and lower belly so urine does not wick into a long coat and cause staining or odor, which matters more for intact, leg-lifting males. On a female, the trim focuses on keeping the rear sanitary area neat and clean.
- Face and finish. Any difference here is pure owner preference, not a breed rule. Some owners ask for a slightly more angular, shorter beard on males and a rounder, softer face or a longer top knot (often finished with a bow) on females. Either look works on either sex.
Bottom line: choose the style you like, then simply ask your groomer for a sex-appropriate sanitary trim. That single request covers the only real difference.
When Should a Maltipoo Puppy Get Its First Haircut?
Most Maltipoos get their first full haircut at around 5 to 6 months of age, but the first grooming visit should happen earlier. Once a puppy has finished its core vaccinations (usually by 12 to 16 weeks), a short introductory appointment is worthwhile even if barely any hair comes off. Early visits are about getting the puppy used to the table, the sound of clippers and the dryer, and having its face, feet, and paws handled, not about a dramatic cut.
Plan for the coat change, too. A Maltipoo's soft puppy coat gradually "blows" and is replaced by a coarser adult coat somewhere between about 8 and 12 months of age, and that transition is the single worst period for matting. Brushing has to ramp up right when the coat feels like it is tangling overnight, because it is.
- Keep the first full cut simple: a basic puppy cut is easier on a wiggly puppy than a sculpted teddy bear, which you can graduate to once the adult coat is fully in.
- Book short, frequent, upbeat sessions so grooming becomes routine rather than stressful.
- Starting grooming visits at 12 to 16 weeks, well before the 8 to 12 month coat change, means your Maltipoo already accepts the clippers and dryer by the time the mat-prone adult coat comes in.
Do Coat Colors Change the Best Maltipoo Haircut?
Coat color does not change which haircut suits a Maltipoo. A teddy bear, puppy, or lamb cut works on white, apricot, black, chocolate, or parti coats equally. What color does change is a few practical styling choices around the face and how neatly the cut reads.
- Light coats (white, cream, apricot). Tear staining and beard discoloration show up most on pale hair, so many owners keep a shorter, tidier face frame, trim the hair around the eyes more often, and wipe the eye area daily to keep it looking clean.
- Dark coats (black, chocolate). Mats and skin hide against a dark coat, so tangles are easy to miss. Comb all the way to the skin even when the coat looks fine. Scissor lines also show more on dark hair, so a slightly longer, well-blended finish looks cleaner than a very short choppy one.
- Parti and phantom coats (like black and white). A shorter, even cut shows off the color pattern, while a longer teddy bear softens and blurs it. Choose length based on whether you want the markings to stand out.
Color is set by genetics, which we cover in the Maltipoo colors guide. The cut is your choice at any color.
The difference is shape and length. A puppy cut is a short, even trim (about half an inch to an inch) all over with a simply rounded face. A teddy bear cut leaves more length (often 1 to 2 inches) and sculpts the face and head into a deliberate round, plush shape with full cheeks, so the dog looks like a stuffed animal. The teddy bear is more stylized and higher-maintenance; the puppy cut is the shorter, easier everyday version.
Keep the body between about a quarter inch and two inches, and never shave to bare skin. Longer clips (1 to 2 inches) mean more brushing to prevent mats; shorter clips (a quarter to half an inch, like a kennel or summer cut) are lower maintenance. If the coat is already matted, a shorter clip is kinder than brushing out tight mats. The coat also protects against sun and abrasion, so leave at least a quarter inch.
A kennel cut, also called a summer cut, is a short all-over clip of about a quarter to half an inch. It is the lowest-maintenance Maltipoo haircut: minimal brushing, fewer mats, and a cool, tidy dog for hot weather or an active lifestyle. Many owners choose it for summer and grow the coat back out for winter. Ask the groomer to keep the head slightly longer and rounded if you still want the signature Maltipoo face.
Brush and comb the coat fully to the skin, then bathe, dry, and brush it straight. Clip the body with a guard comb or blade at your target length, moving with the direction of hair growth. Scissor the face, feet, and tail with blunt-tip safety scissors, rounding the face gradually and trimming around the eyes so your dog can see. Finish with a comb-through and touch up uneven spots. Keep sessions short and reward often, and leave delicate facial work to a groomer if you are unsure.
Aim for a full professional groom every 4 to 6 weeks, plus brushing at home 3 to 5 times a week (daily for a full teddy bear or lamb cut). Bathe about every 3 to 4 weeks. Stretching much past 6 weeks usually lets the coat outgrow its shape and start to mat.
Maltipoos have a single, continuously growing hair-type coat, so loose, shed hairs stay trapped in the coat instead of falling out and quickly twist into mats. Curlier coats mat fastest. Friction zones (behind the ears, under the collar and harness, armpits, groin, and tail base) mat first. Frequent brushing to the skin, thorough drying after baths, and a manageable coat length prevent it.
You can go shorter for summer with a kennel cut of about a quarter to half an inch, but do not shave to the skin. The remaining coat still shields against sun and abrasion, and shaving bald can irritate the skin and make the coat grow back uneven. A short summer clip keeps a Maltipoo cool while protecting the skin.
For breed and coat background on the Maltese and Poodle parents, the American Kennel Club (akc.org) is the authoritative reference, and for skin, coat, and ear-health questions a veterinary source such as Cornell University's College of Veterinary Medicine (vet.cornell.edu) or your own veterinarian is the best guide. If you are comparing low-shedding doodle crosses on grooming needs as well as temperament, our guides to the cavapoo and the full Maltipoo breed profile put the whole care picture in one place.
Coreen Saito is a pet writer and longtime shelter volunteer with more than a decade in animal rescue. She covers cat behavior, breed care, and the small, ordinary science of sharing a life with companion animals, with a particular focus on honest takes about the products and decisions that actually matter. At home in Arizona, she's outranked by Mac (a dog with the loudest opinion in the house), Rebel (a cat who governs by quiet authority), and Meri (an orange tabby who runs the late shift and the laundry basket). She writes about all three, plus the rescues that keep coming through her life, at LifeWithMinty.com.
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